Written and reviewed by Kladi Bejkolli
·Mortgage Loan Officer, NMLS #1626841·Last reviewed September 29, 2026
The straight answer
Lenders size a mortgage by looking at four things together: your income, your debts,
your down payment, and the full monthly payment you can carry. The common rule of thumb
is that your total housing payment should stay around 28% of your gross income, with all
your debts together around 36%. But those are guidelines, not guarantees. The real
number depends on your whole picture, which is why the same income can support very
different home prices depending on your debts, your down payment, and the taxes and
insurance where you buy.
The debt-to-income ratio, in plain terms
Debt-to-income ratio, or DTI, is the tool lenders use to weigh your monthly debts
against your gross monthly income. Gross income is what you earn before taxes and other
deductions. The ratio itself is simple: your monthly obligations divided by your monthly
income. Lenders look at it in two pieces.
Front-end ratio: the housing piece
The front-end ratio is your total housing payment divided by your gross monthly income.
Total housing payment means the full payment: principal, interest, property taxes,
homeowners insurance, and HOA dues where they apply. A common guideline is to keep this
around 28% of gross income.
Back-end ratio: everything you owe
The back-end ratio adds every other monthly debt on top of the housing payment: car
loans, student loans, credit card minimums, and anything else that shows on your credit.
A common guideline is to keep all of it together around 36% of gross income.
Lenders count income they can document and that they expect to continue. The more stable
and verifiable the income, the more weight it carries.
Salary and W-2 income
For salaried borrowers, lenders use gross pay from pay stubs and W-2s. Regular bonuses,
overtime, and commissions can count too, usually when they show a consistent history on
the documents you provide.
Self-employment
Self-employed borrowers are typically qualified on net income, what the business actually
keeps after expenses, not gross revenue. Lenders usually average one to two years of tax
returns to find a stable number. If your income has grown, the average may still reflect
the full history, so the conversation matters as much as the paperwork.
Other income
Rental income, alimony, child support, and investment income can count when they are
documented and likely to continue. The rule is the same across all of it: lenders want
income they can verify and expect to keep seeing.
What counts as debt
The debt side of the ratio is every monthly obligation that shows up on your credit
report or that you are legally required to pay:
Car loans and leases: the full monthly payment counts.
Student loans: the monthly payment counts, whether in repayment or on a documented plan.
Credit cards: the minimum monthly payment counts, not the full balance.
Other obligations: personal loans, alimony, child support, and any other monthly payment you are committed to.
Day-to-day costs like utilities, groceries, phone bills, and streaming subscriptions are
typically not counted in DTI. Lenders focus on the obligations you have already committed
to in writing, because those are the payments that compete with a mortgage.
Why the full payment matters, not just the loan payment
The 28% guideline is measured against the full housing payment, not the principal and
interest alone. That full payment has five parts: principal, interest, property taxes,
homeowners insurance, and HOA dues where they apply. Two buyers with the same loan
amount and rate can have very different full payments, because taxes and insurance vary
widely by home and location.
This is also why a mortgage calculator that only shows principal and interest can
undersell the real cost by hundreds of dollars a month. The
guide on what affects your monthly payment
walks through each piece and how it moves the number.
The down payment's role in what you can borrow
Your down payment sets the size of the loan. Put more down and you borrow less, so your
monthly payment is lower at the same rate, which means the same income can support a
higher price. Put 20% down on a conventional loan and you typically avoid mortgage
insurance too, which keeps the full payment lower. A smaller down payment keeps more cash
in your pocket but raises the loan amount and the payment, and often adds mortgage
insurance until your equity builds.
Numbers are easier to feel with an example. This one is an illustration for planning,
not a quote and not a preapproval. Every assumption is labeled, and the rate is
illustrative: 6.5%, for example only. Rates change and are set at application.
Illustration only, not a quote or preapproval
Assumptions below
1Gross monthly income: $90,000 per year divided by 12 = $7,500 per month.
2Apply the 28% housing guideline: $7,500 × 0.28 = about $2,100 per month for the full housing payment.
3Check the 36% back-end guideline: $7,500 × 0.36 = $2,700 for all debts. With no other debts in this example, the housing payment is the only obligation, so it fits with room to spare.
4Subtract estimated taxes and insurance: on a home around $310,000, estimated property taxes at 1.5% of the price are about $388 per month, and estimated homeowners insurance at $1,800 per year is $150 per month. $2,100 − $388 − $150 leaves about $1,562 per month for principal and interest.
5Work backward to the loan amount: at an illustrative 6.5% rate on a 30-year fixed term, about $1,562 per month supports roughly a $248,000 loan.
6Add the 20% down payment back in: a $248,000 loan at 80% of the price means the home price is about $310,000 ($248,000 ÷ 0.8).
The result is a rough range of roughly $300,000 to $320,000 for this
illustration, before HOA dues and before mortgage insurance (20% down typically avoids
PMI on a conventional loan). It is a rough range for planning, not a quote and not a
preapproval.
As of September 29, 2026. Assumptions: $90,000 annual gross income ($7,500 per month);
no other monthly debts; a 20% down payment; a 30-year fixed term at an illustrative
rate of 6.5% (for example only, not a current offer; rates change and are set at
application); estimated property taxes at 1.5% of the home's value; estimated
homeowners insurance of $1,800 per year. Property taxes, insurance, and HOA dues vary
by home and location, and mortgage insurance is not included because the premium
depends on the program and credit profile. This is an illustration only: not a quote,
not an offer of credit, and not a promise of approval or affordability. Your real
range depends on your income, debts, down payment, credit, and the state the property
is in.
Key takeaways
Lenders weigh four things together: income, debts, down payment, and the full monthly payment.
The common guideline is about 28% of gross income for housing and 36% for all debts, but programs and lenders vary and these are guidelines, not cutoffs.
The full payment includes principal, interest, taxes, insurance, and HOA, so the same loan can mean very different payments in different areas.
The real number comes from your actual income, debts, down payment, and the state the property is in, not from a rule of thumb.
Frequently asked questions
Does my credit score change what I can afford?
Yes, in a real way. Your credit score influences the rate you are offered and which
programs you qualify for, and a higher rate means a higher payment at the same price.
The 28% and 36% math does not change, but the payment that math produces does, so the
same income can support more or less house depending on your credit profile. Improving
your score before you apply can widen your range.
Can I include a co-borrower's income?
Yes, if the co-borrower is on the loan. Lenders combine both borrowers' income and both
borrowers' debts when they calculate the ratios, which can raise the amount you qualify
for. Both credit profiles are part of the picture, so the conversation should cover the
whole household, not just the higher earner.
What if my debts push me over 36%?
You have options. Pay down or pay off debt before you apply, choose a lower price range,
or look at programs that allow higher ratios with compensating factors like a larger
down payment or stronger reserves. Which path fits depends on your numbers, and that is
exactly what Kladi lays out in a short conversation.
Kladi Bejkolli is a Mortgage Loan Officer and Branch Manager at West Capital Lending,
Inc. (NMLS #1566096), licensed in 26 states plus Washington, D.C. He founded and owned
Besa Home Mortgage, and he writes and reviews every guide on this site. NMLS #1626841.
Last reviewed September 29, 2026
Want your own number? Ask Kladi for a Payment Snapshot.
A Payment Snapshot is a plain-language rundown of what your monthly payment would look
like at the income, debts, and price range you are considering, with every assumption
labeled: price, down payment, rate, taxes, insurance, and HOA. It starts with a short
conversation: free, plain language, and no obligation.
General education only: not a quote, an offer of credit, or a promise of approval or
affordability. The illustrative rate and assumptions in this article are for example only;
rates change and are set at application. Programs and guidelines vary by state, product,
and borrower profile, and Kladi's licensing covers 26 states plus Washington, D.C., so
eligibility is confirmed for the state the property is in. The answer always depends on
your income, your debts, your down payment, and your full financial picture. Confirm your
situation with Kladi directly.
Next step
Get your own realistic range.
Tell Kladi your income, your monthly debts, and the state your property is in or will be in, and he will run your numbers and show you the range that fits, with every assumption labeled.